Your place to ask questions that there aren't time for during courses, and continue your training after your course is over. Aside from answering questions I will talk about different range drills, firearms tips and techniques, maintaining a defensive mindset, and firearms reviews.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Selecting a Home Defense Shotgun

For well over a century now, one of the go-to firearms for home defense has been a shotgun.  Over that time, a large number of myths have developed about shotguns, and their effectiveness and use.  I am hoping in some of my future posts to address some of those myths.  This post is going to focus on some of the characteristics you should look for in buying or assembling your own home defense shotgun.



Shotguns generally have two main uses in modern times.  The first is for different types of hunting, and different types of clay pigeon shooting, like trap, skeet, and sporting clays.  The second is for defensive use, either by law enforcement and the military, as well as by civilians.  While you could take a shotgun suited for hunting and use it for defense as needed, that is not ideal, and neither is the reverse.  Hunting/sporting shotguns can be any style of action, semi-automatic, pump, and break actions including side by sides and over-unders can all be found to fulfill this role.  You can also on occasion find bolt action shotguns designed for deer hunting, which are kind of odd-balls, and don't really fit in with the rest of the types of shotguns.  Common features on these shotguns regardless of actions include long barrels, usually over 26 inches, interchangeable choke tubes, and a small magazine capacity.  Many jurisdictions limit the number of rounds a  hunting shotgun can hold, often to three rounds.  So, even though a standard Remington 870 pump action shotgun can hold 5 rounds, the magazine tube needs to be plugged in order to legally hunt.  Be sure if you intend to hunt, you know the firearms laws and restrictions for the jurisdiction you intend to hunt in, because they vary throughout the nation.  They also usually have simple sighting systems, like a plain bead front sight.



Defensive shotguns have different traits that make them more suitable for the role.  They generally have shorter barrels, usually between 18.5 inches, and 20 inches.  The shorter barrel makes the shotgun more maneuverable indoors, as well as helping clear doorways because there is less out in front of you for someone to grab, or for you to accidentally have sticking into a room, giving away your position.  They also have larger magazine capacities where allowed by law, sometimes up to 8 rounds for a tube magazine, or 10 rounds for a detachable box magazine.  The larger capacity does add some weight at the front of the gun, but doesn't add much bulk, and allows you to stay in the fight longer before reloading.  They often do not have interchangeable choke tubes, and generally have a fixed choke, which has one of the more open patterns, like Improved Cylinder.  There isn't a need for different chokes on a shotgun like this, because their intended use is usually at very close range.  They can have more complex sighting systems, like rifle sights, night sight beads, or ghost ring sights.  They also may have a weapon mounted light, and some way to carry spare ammunition on the shotgun.   Below are some examples of home defense shotguns, a semi-auto Mossberg 930 SPX, pump action Remington 870, and a side by side Stoeger Coach Gun.



While you can use a hunting shotgun for defense, or a defense shotgun for hunting, it is not ideal to do so.  It is possible to have one shotgun, and modify it for either use.  This is easiest accomplished with a pump action shotgun.  The two main contenders on the market today are the Remington 870, and the Mossberg 500.  If I was only going to own one shotgun, it would be one of these two.  As they come from the factory, both usually have a 26 or 28 inch barrel, and a 5 shot capacity.  Both companies also have different grade shotguns, which get more expensive with the upgrades.  The biggest difference between the base model 870 Express, and the 500, are the locations of the controls, including the safety.  So, if you are looking for a shotgun, try to get your hands on both, and see which controls work best for you.

The base model is already set up pretty well for most kinds of hunting.  The barrel is long enough to swing well and provide good patterns, and the shotgun often comes with a magazine plug to reduce capacity for hunting.  You can also find 18.5 inch barrels for both of these shotguns readily available.  By removing the plug, and swapping the longer barrel for an 18.5 inch barrel, you have a good choice for a home defense shotgun.  That way you have one shotgun that can fill pretty much anything you need it to, with just the change of a barrel, which can even be accomplished without tools, in under a minute.   If I was going to own just one shotgun, the above set up is what I would use.

There are a plethora of accessories on the market today for defensive shotgun, but I like to keep mine rather simple.  I add a sling, a light source, and some way to carry extra ammo, and leave it at that.  I covered weapon mounted lights in a previous post, but I think they serve a good purpose on a home defense shotgun, and are a good investment.  You do need to ensure you buy a quality light and mount that will be able to withstand the recoil from a shotgun.  And position the light in a place where you can activate it using your normal hand position during firing.  They do make some excellent fore-end replacement units for pump action shotguns that allow you to operate the light with your forward hand, while cycling the weapon even.

For holding extra ammo you can add a side-saddle, which my 870 has, on the side of the reciever, or an elastic buttstock sleeve.  Both work relatively well, and the elastic sleeve is not model specific.  The slings that are designed to hold extra shells generally don't work, because they prevent proper sling use, as well as adding a swinging pendulum of weight under the shotgun that disturbs your aim.  But, a quality sling that allows you to use your hands while maintaining control of the shotgun is a good idea.

I prefer the standard style buttstock on my shotgun.  Most of the folding stocks I have encountered don't have a very tight lock up, and make noise and don't provide a good cheek weld.  Similarly, I don't like pistol grip only stocks.  You lose the ability to properly sight the shotgun, and it intensifies recoil.  They look really cool in the movies, and have limited real world use for breaching shotguns, but for home defense, I like an actual buttstock that allows me to get a good cheek weld, distributes recoil throughout my body, and lets me use the sights on my shotgun.  And fore-ends with pistol grips tend to feel a bit awkward to cycle, and add extra bulk to the shotgun.

I also don't like lasers on shotguns.  With most shells, a shotgun fires a pattern of pellets, which spreads with distance.  Unless you are shooting slugs, which have major over-penetration concerns for home defense, a laser is just going to give a general idea of where you will hit.  Keep your home defense shotgun as simple as possible, it doesn't need a whole lot of bells and whistles.  In fact, bells and whistles may detract from it's usefulness.

Which brings me to my next point.  In the picture above, one of the shotguns doesn't look like the rest.  That shotgun is a Stoeger Coach Gun.  Some people may say that it is obsolete as a home defense shotgun in the 21st century, I would disagree with them, but there is a caveat.  The advantage of a coach gun is that it's overall length is short, even shorter than my pump or semi-auto with their short barrels.  It is also much lighter weight than either of the other two.  And, since it has dual triggers, if you want or need to, you can shoot both barrels at once.  Which brings me to my caveat.  The reload of this style shotgun is rather slow, requires fine motor skills, and it has a very limited capacity of two shots.  So, if you are going to use a shotgun like this for home defense, have something to back it up, like a defensive pistol, so after the first two rounds are fired, you can transition to something with more capacity if needed.  This is a technique that goes back to at least the post-Civil War era in America, with a short side by side shotgun to begin an engagement, backed up by a handgun.

Hopefully this answered some of your questions about selecting a home defense shotgun.  In future posts I hope to explore some related topics, such as shell selection, as well as addressing some of the myths surrounding shotgun usage.  If anyone has any questions or comments, feel free to post them, and I will try to address them as soon as possible.




Monday, July 23, 2012

Thoughts On Taking Cover

I realize that it has been a couple of weeks since the last post, but hopefully things have settled down for me enough that I can get back to my post a week goal.

In this post I am going to go over something that needs consideration relating to having a defensive mindset and situational awareness.  And that is the difference between cover and concealment.

Concealment is a barrier that obscures you from the threat.  If you are hiding behind a bush, or an interior wall, then you are behind concealment, not cover.

Cover is a barrier that protects you from the threat.  If you are behind a mound of packed dirt, a cinder block wall, or the engine block of a vehicle, then you are most likely behind cover.  Now, take note that I said most likely.  That is because firearms come in a wide variety of powers.  What provides you cover from a .22LR, may not be able to protect you from a 12 gauge slug.

So, what constitutes cover is a changing concept, and also cover can deteriorate with repeated hits.  But, generally speaking, if there is a threat trying to shoot you, you should get behind the most solid piece of cover possible, and then evade or engage accordingly.

What I am not advocating is to sit there and try to determine what type of gun you are being shot at by, and then looking for appropriate cover, because there isn't time for that.  But, a lot of what is used as cover in TV and the movies, is actually concealment.  A car door is really just a couple pieces of sheet metal with some trim and glass, and can be penetrated with many handgun rounds.  A wooden table or couch are definitely concealment, as is an interior wall, and most doors.

Some things that generally make good cover are packed dirt (there is a reason the military still uses sandbags), concrete, thick gauge metal, and thick trees and pieces of wood.  Be aware of the threat of ricochet with any of the hard surfaces as well.

Pretty much the worst thing you can do if there is a lethal threat, is stand still.  It can greatly increase your chances of survival  if you move, especially towards cover.  Concealment is better than standing still, but not as good as cover.

So make sure you understand the differences between cover and concealment, and learn how to recognize what cover is.  If you have the opportunity, you may want to run some tests to see what kind of things qualify as cover, just make sure you do so in a safe manner.  Also, you can check out the link to the "Box O' Truth" he has a lot of tests on penetration capabilities of different rounds, that may be rather eye opening.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

A Secret For Getting a Good Deal on Pistols

Firearms are a very front-end heavy investment, and there is no way around that.  For a self defense handgun, I truly believe that you should buy the best pistol you can afford, after all, you are depending on it to protect your life if you ever need to use it.  Pretty much all of the firearms from reputable makers that I would feel comfortable carrying for defense, are in the $350 and up range, with a couple of exceptions.  And  for someone who isn't a "gun person" that sounds like a lot of money to spend on a pistol.

But the truth of it is, that a pistol from a reputable manufacturer is going to be better made, and have better features.  It will be constructed of better materials, and probably has a good warranty from the maker (you can verify this before buying by seeing what the manufacturer's warranty policy is).  And a firearm from a reputable maker will last a lifetime of shooting for the average user.  So, if I have a $400 handgun, that I use for 40 years, it works out to under a dollar a month of use.  Which is why saving up and buying a quality handgun is always a good idea.

Now, a lot of the more common and popular handgun brands cost five hundred dollars or more, with several thousand dollars being possible.  And that is a lot of money to spend on a handgun, I understand that.  So, I have found a way to get quality made firearms at a much lower cost than retail for a new gun.  Within the used gun market, are what are known as "police trade in guns," and these are often some of the best buys you can make.

When a police department decides to switch out firearms platforms, often their old duty guns get sold to dealers at low cost.  This means that these batches of police trade ins are comprised of firearms that have been in common use with law enforcement in the past decade.  This isn't just limited to pistols either, I have also seen police trade in batches of Ruger Mini-14's, and Remington 870 Police shotguns.  I have also seen most of the sidearms that people commonly want for defensive purposes, like pistols from Sig Sauer, Glock Smith and Wesson semi-automatics and revolvers, Beretta and Kahr.  These firearms often sell cheaper than a normal used gun of the same model, because the dealers buy them in bulk.  Often they sell for half or two-thirds of the new price.  For example, in the past I picked up a $1,000 Sig 226 in 9mm for five hundred dollars.  A lot of these pistols also have night sights on them, because they were used by police departments, and while they aren't as bright as new night sights, they are often still usable.

There are a few downsides to the police trade in firearms.  First of all, is that they generally have some finish wear.  These pistols have generally been carried a lot, and shot very little (usually only for yearly qualifications), so they have holster wear.  I don't really have a problem with these, because my firearms are tools, and they are going to acquire holster wear from use.  The other main problem is that you don't really get choices on what options you get.  If you go on Sig Sauer's website, you will see that they have a lot of different trigger styles, and upgrade packages for the 226.  The 226 that I bought was the normal variant, with their traditional DA/SA trigger.  So, if you want a particular upgraded model, police trade ins probably aren't for you.  You also don't know how many rounds the pistol has had through it, and every so often springs do need replaced in pistols, especially your recoil spring.  But with the money you save, you can spend a few dollars for a new recoil spring.  Another issue is that usually larger dealers buy up the batches of trade ins, so you either need to live close to them, or pay a transfer fee to your local gun store.

Overall, I have found police trade ins to be an excellent value, and a way to buy pistols that I may not be otherwise able to afford.  I can tolerate some finish wear and needing to replace a couple of springs, in able to get a great functioning and shooting firearm.  And here is a picture of some of my favorite police trade in pistols:  The top row is a Smith and Wesson Model 64 revolver, and the aforementioned Sig 226 9mm (you can see some finish wear on the muzzle end of the slide) and the bottom row is a Glock 36, and Sig 220.  Notice that with the Glock finish, and the stainless steel on the Model 64 the finish looks fine.